Driveway & concrete
Oil spots, red clay, tire marks, and years of grey film lifted off driveways, sidewalks, patios, and pool decks with a surface cleaner — no zebra striping.
Up to 4,400 PSIWood punishes guesswork. Too much pressure doesn't just clean it — it tears the surface fibers open and leaves a permanent fuzzy texture.
The grey on an untreated deck is UV-damaged surface wood plus mildew. Removing it is genuinely satisfying work, and it's also where amateur pressure washing does its most visible damage: hold the tip too close, or use too narrow a fan, and you carve furrows into the board and raise the grain. That 'furring' can't be pressure-washed away — it has to be sanded.
We work between roughly 800 and 1,500 PSI depending on the species and how weathered the boards are, with a wide fan, at a consistent distance, moving with the grain rather than across it. Pine, cedar, and pressure-treated lumber all behave differently, and a fifteen-year-old board is softer than a new one.
Composite decking gets a different treatment again — low pressure and cleaner, because the plastic-and-fiber surface scars and can't be sanded back.
Written down because a repeatable result comes from a repeatable method — not from whoever happens to be holding the wand.
Pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, ipe and composite all behave differently, and a 15-year-old deck is not a 2-year-old one. The setting comes from what is actually there, not from a default.
A patch under a step or behind a planter gets cleaned first at the intended pressure. If the wood furs or the grain lifts, the pressure comes down before anything visible is touched.
Between 800 and 1,500 PSI, moving with the grain at a consistent distance. Held too close or across the grain is how you get the fuzzy, etched wands marks that never sand out properly.
A brightener goes on afterwards to neutralise the cleaner's pH and pull the colour back to an even tone. Skipping this is why some cleaned decks look blotchy and refuse to take stain evenly.
Everything gets rinsed down, and we tell you the drying window before it can be sealed — usually 48 to 72 hours depending on humidity and shade.
And what it doesn't. Both lists are here so the quote you get is the price you pay.
Wood and composite decks, railings and balusters, privacy and picket fencing, pergolas, gazebos, playsets, and outdoor furniture.
If you're staining or sealing afterward, the wood has to dry fully first — typically 48 hours of decent weather. Sealing damp wood traps moisture and the finish fails early.
Too-high pressure tears the surface fibers upright. No amount of further washing lays them back down; the fix is sanding. This is the main reason to dial pressure by species.
It still grows mildew in shade and still stains. It just needs cleaner and low pressure rather than force, because scars in composite don't sand out.
We quote flat, per job, after seeing it — so instead of a price list that can't be honest, here is exactly what moves the figure.
Horizontal wood in this climate greys and grows a film faster than fence panels do, and shaded decks faster again. Clean and brighten every one to two years to stay ahead of it. If you are re-staining or re-sealing, cleaning first is not optional — sealer over a grey, mildewed surface locks the problem in underneath and fails early.
If it's not spotless, we come back and re-blast it at no charge. We're a new company — our name is worth more than any single invoice, and we act like it on every job.
Yes, at the right pressure, moving with the grain, tested first. What ruins decks is a high-pressure tip held close and moved across the grain — it tears the soft summer wood out from between the growth rings, leaving a furry surface that will not take stain evenly and cannot be fixed without sanding. That is a technique failure, not an inevitability.
It's part of the job here, not an add-on. Deck cleaners are alkaline; brightener is acidic and neutralises what's left, which stops the wood darkening unevenly as it dries and helps it accept stain. A deck cleaned without it usually looks fine wet and blotchy a week later.
48 to 72 hours in normal conditions, longer if it's shaded or humid. Wood has to be dry through the top layer, not just dry to the touch — sealing over trapped moisture is how you get a cloudy finish that peels. If you're hiring someone to stain it, book them a few days out from the wash.
Partly, and that is worth talking about before we start. Washing removes what has already failed and lost its bond; it will not take sound stain back to bare wood. If the result you want is bare wood, that's a stripping job with a different chemistry, a different price, and an honest warning that it's messy.
Bundling in the same visit is cheaper than a second trip — the setup is most of the work.
Oil spots, red clay, tire marks, and years of grey film lifted off driveways, sidewalks, patios, and pool decks with a surface cleaner — no zebra striping.
Up to 4,400 PSIVinyl, brick, stucco, and hardboard cleaned with low pressure and the right solution — the green mildew and black streaks gone without forcing water behind the siding.
Under 500 PSIThose black streaks are algae eating your shingles' limestone filler. Removed chemically at low pressure — never blasted, which strips granules and voids warranties.
Under 500 PSICleared out by hand, then the tiger-striping scrubbed off the outside face — the vertical black streaks that don't come off with a normal house wash.
Hand + soft washStorefronts, dumpster pads, drive-thrus, sidewalks and awnings — cleaned before you open, so a customer never watches you wash gum off the entrance.
Scheduled off-hoursHand washing and touchless rinsing for cars, trucks, trailers, and fleet vehicles — at your home or your yard, without the swirl marks a tunnel wash leaves.
Touchless + handBased in Charlotte, on the road all over the metro. Pick your area for local details, or just request a quote — if you're close, we'll come.
Tell us about the job and we'll come back within one business day with a flat price. Prefer to pick a time? Book a wash online.